If you love Hawaii but want to escape the crowds, high prices, and urban landscapes, the Big Island is calling. It offers a glimpse of the vintage Hawaii you’ve seen in old movies, with more nature, fewer skyscrapers, and a laid-back vibe that feels like stepping back in time.
Why Big Island?
The Big Island of Hawaii offers a unique travel experience, combining raw natural beauty with diverse landscapes. From active volcanoes and black sand beaches to lush rainforests and pristine waterfalls, it’s a nature lover’s paradise. Unlike the more crowded Hawaiian islands, the Big Island retains an old-school charm, allowing you to experience the authentic, laid-back Hawaiian vibe. Whether you’re into hiking, stargazing at Mauna Kea, or snorkeling with manta rays, the Big Island has something for every adventurer.
Why NOT Big Island
That being said. The Big Island might not be for everyone. Its rugged terrain and slower pace can feel too remote for those seeking luxury or vibrant nightlife. Many parts of the island are more spread out, requiring long drives between attractions, and the weather can be unpredictable, with frequent rain and windy conditions in certain areas. Additionally, the island’s smaller tourist infrastructure means fewer high-end amenities, which could be a drawback for travelers accustomed to more polished resort experiences on other Hawaiian islands like Maui or Oahu.
Landing in Honolulu
When flying to the Big Island, most travelers have to stop in Honolulu on Oahu first, as it serves as a major hub for flights within Hawaii. Since you’re already passing through, it’s a great excuse to spend a couple of days exploring Oahu before continuing on to the Big Island. You can visit iconic spots like Waikiki Beach, Pearl Harbor, or take a hike up Diamond Head.
In our case, we dropped the obvious and instead took the long bus ride to the North Shore, since we surf. The bus ride is long, but it is so nice to make the loop and see some tourist-free areas of Oahu. Also, a fun fact, the bus driver takes a mandatory break stop at Haleiwa’s Starbucks, which was the occasion to get a tea and chat with the other bus riders, very fun!
Our Trip
We know, picking Hawaii for our honeymoon, is quite cliché, but Big Island is far from being the classic bridal destination, plus, we decided to spend about 3 weeks in a van. Not the fancy type neither, no. So, just like Jonas, the man who rented us the van said, if we survive these 3 weeks in these conditions, the rest of the marriage should be rolling.
Then there was an underlying reason for that particular destination, it happens to be our dream to move out there for good, so it was also a question of prospecting areas and neighborhoods we like on the island.
Okay, so let’s get started with this guide, should we?
Hilo for a start
Hilo is a charming town known for its lush landscapes and vibrant culture. Nestled between majestic mountains and the Pacific Ocean, it boasts beautiful waterfalls, botanical gardens, and black sand beaches. The town features a rich history, with a blend of Hawaiian traditions and Asian influences visible in its architecture and cuisine.
It’s the only town on the island that actually feels like a city, even though, you have no skyscraper or anything of that sort. It does have a small center though where you can find restaurants, and businesses, as well as a small theater, hospitals, and bigger chains like The Home Depot, Goodwill, or Walmart.
Now, if you decide to spend a day or two in Hilo, here are a few recommendations:
I know, it kinda sounds grim, but really, it’s super instructive and gives a fair share of historical information about the city, as well as safety knowledge, and showcases some cool science experiments too. So if you’re a nerd like me, this is a must-visit.
This natural beauty is actually just on the outskirt of the town. The fall is often crowned by a pretty rainbow, if it just rained, so if you miss it once, you can always drive by again, it’s super easy access. There are a few massive ancient Banyan trees near by, and a small picnic area where we got tea. Always a good idea.
Yes, just 10 minutes away from the Hilo center, you can find a few sea-ponds perfect for some awesome snorkeling, or swim. It’s surprisingly not busy, and you have a few spots down that road, not just on that beach park. A lot of fish, sea life, sometimes turtles and a lot of tiny islands to sunbath or chill.
Hawaii used to be an island of agriculture, and even though that seriously diminished, you can still find a lot of locally grown fresh fruits and produces. This place is very local, and a great place to have a few snacks, at the nearby food trucks.
Next, The Volcano
We’re talking National Park territory here, with a real, active volcano. Since we’re getting to know each other, I’ll admit another nerdy trait of mine: I’m obsessed with volcanoes. This one is among the few magmatic volcanoes on Earth, meaning it doesn’t explode! While it can erupt and cause damage to a degree, it’s not explosive like others. Instead, the lava flow here is gradual and controlled, moving steadily rather than violently, making it a rare and fascinating sight.
Anyway, about 1 hour drive out of town, you will reach one of the high grounds of the island, and enter the National Volcano Park of Hawaii to meet the beautiful Kīlauea herself. If you are lucky, and there is some activity, then try to spend some time there at night, where you can see the red glares and smoke clouds flying around.
View from the Rim
The park is pretty big, but the best view is from the rim, where you have a full view over the caldera and crater. Again, if you have some activity going on, the spectacle is magical at night.
The Hikes
The park counts plenty of trails and hikes available. You can walk around, check out some steam holes, or drive around the park and check out some ancient deep craters, or hardened lava flows, it ven goes down to the ocean. There is a lot to see, so save at least a full day here.
This is the main lodging option in the Park, and clearly out of budget for most, including us. Nevertheless, the vintage lodge is open to everyone to visit, walk along the rim balcony with one of the best views on the caldera, eat or spend a few hours cozying up by the fireplace which based on their say, has been burning continuously for 135 years.
Next stop, the Southern Point
If you continue along Route 11 and leave the park, you’ll enjoy a scenic drive downhill toward the southern coast of the island. This part of Hawaii feels quiet and pastoral, with stunning views of ocean cliffs and endless lava fields creating a truly unique landscape. If you’re just passing through, at least make a snack stop at Hana Hou, a local eatery with Hawaiian comfort food. But if you have more time, here’s my suggestion:
This secluded black sand beach, is the perfect spot to chill on the sand, swim (there is an actual lifeguard station), stroll around ocean pools and shore cliffs. There is a community space for picnic, where there is always something going on, as the locals are avid user of the space, music, and dancing are often there to be shared and enjoyed.
I don’t think I would live in this area because there are no available surf spot nearby, but if there was, then it would be my top choice.
Next, Ocean View
Continuing down Route 11, you’ll enter an area aptly named Ocean View. For miles, you’ll pass through sprawling lava fields that stretch from mountain peaks to beach, with vast, open views of the ocean. Driving through this moon-like landscape is a surreal experience, offering a momentary feeling of being somewhere far beyond Earth or even Hawaii itself.
You’re moving from the island’s southern rim to its western coast, and the vibe shifts immediately. The sky turns a perfect blue, the sun is bright, and the landscape begins to feel a bit more tropical. Aside from the ocean views and the occasional Hawaiian bungalow emerging from lava fields like quirky mushrooms, there’s little else in sight, adding to the area’s quiet charm.
Before you reach Kona area, here are a few stops you might want to consider:
This secluded beach, in a hidden cove down the hill, is a small neighborhood spot where locals spend their beach day with family, swimming and cooking out. The beach is protected which makes it a very mellow spot to swim, with generous shallows of transparent waters.
Pretty much your last stop before entering Kona, is this quaint and tiny town, with your typical Hawaiian dream landscape, mom and pop’s shops and restaurants, authentic local food, and great vintage stores full of treasures, like Discovery Antiques. Definitely worth a visit, for some one-of-a-kind souvenirs.
The Captain Cook area and overall drive along that coastline very much reminded me of Lilo and Stitch, rural, local and so Hawaiian.
Kona
Next, we arrive at Kona—the island’s second major town and Hilo’s sunny opposite. Kona feels like a resort town, offering the white-sand beaches and sunny skies often associated with Oahu and Maui. It’s a vibrant contrast to Hilo’s more laid-back vibe, making it an ideal spot for those craving a more classic island feel.
As the busiest hub on the Big Island, Kona has plenty to offer. It’s worth setting aside a few days in your itinerary to explore the many beaches and surf spots here, like Banyans and the Old Airport, where you can swim, rent gear, or take surf lessons. There’s a variety of outdoor activities, so you’ll have no shortage of options to enjoy the island’s coastal lifestyle.
Like I said, this is the part of Big Island that offers the most “postcard perfect” beaches. It is of course a lot more crowded that the other spots shared so far, but non the less amazing and fun. From Banyan’s to the Old Airport Beach many of those beaches offer small to medium surf opportunities.
Ali’i Drive
The coastline road that spreads across Kona is filled with numerous bars, restaurants, cafes, stores and more. It would be too much to share it all, plus, a lot of these small businesses have a high turn-around, and might be completely different by the time you get there. Here you can see us enjoying a beer sample tray and coconut cake at Kai Eats + Drinks water front.
When it comes to entertainment, Kona is nothing short of anything you’ll think to enjoy on vacation, clubs, bars, karaoke, and comedy clubs. This one was a total surprise to us, we got a flyers one afternoon and decided to go check it out. The place was great, again locals mainly, beers and easy food, and amazing local talents.
As always, our sustainable shopping habits follow us on vacation too, so we are always on the hunt for local markets and thrift stores. Kona has a few, but our favorite was by far the Ohana store, located couple of blocks away from Kona’s ocean-front. Remember the Salvation Army stores do more than second hand, they support local communities.
Kona is not where we would want to live, but this is definitely a place we would visit on the regular if we were living on the island.
The North Coast
Or should I say, the Mediterranean side of the island. Yes because, Big Island has that of particular, it collects a total of 8 different climate zones!
Coming from California, and having spent a lot of time in Spain during childhood, I can confirm that there is a maquis, quasi deserting side to Hawaii, and that is along that coast line.
Again, not much to see in terms of town, or attraction, but I will still recommend 2 spots to stop by on your way to Hawi.
This beach is another fine, dreamy white sand spot you can enjoy on the Big Island. Besides for the few resorts near by, there is nothing, and therefor, not many people. It’s a great spot to swim, and snorkel in peace. We have read that some people do surf here sometimes, but there was no swell the day we visited 🙁
At the end of the small harbor of Kawaihae, you’ll find a Seafood restaurant on the second floor of a small building, it looks like nothing, but inside is a pure essence of Tiki joy, with the most amazing seafood menu we have experienced on the Island.
From there the drive continues North for a bit, you’ll leave the Mediterranean area for a more humid zone, higher in altitude with pine trees and fresh air. Enjoy the road. Always.
Hawi
On the North-West tip of the island lies the small town of Hawi. Tucked away from the tourist flow, this town has a remote, almost timeless charm, blending mid-century postcard Hawaii with a nostalgic European countryside feel. Hawi is home to a few small shops and coffee spots, with most of its quaint streets lined by cozy residences. Its look is authentic and quaint, like the Hawaii seen in classic films set in the islands.
Local Farms
Yes, Hawi is one of the agricultural hobs of Hawaii. Homesteading, permaculture, you have a wide choice of local grown produces around here, from dairy products, and fruits to locally harvested honey.
This is probably our favorite spot on Big Island. Not only do you have a breath taking view over the Pololû beach, you can also take the trail down and surf. This area is the west end of the famous Waipi’o Valley, which is closed to public for preservation, but you can have a glorious peek at it here.
Local Eateries
There are a few places to enjoy, but Pomaika’i Cafe was from far our favorite, we went back twice because of their homemade cakes, delicious chai and nice backyard area. It is tiny, and authentically local.
This one is another great beach spot around the area for swim, bbq, and snorkeling in a tide pools. Even though the break offers a fine right wave to surf, the amount of rocks makes it rather tricky. We only witnessed 1 local going at it, and he was wearing an helmet … we stayed on the beach that day.
Waimea
As you leave the heights of Hawi, the road gradually winds down toward Waimea Valley, shifting from a warm, Swiss-like landscape to a true wine-country setting. The drive is beautiful, and we made a stop along the way to grill some food and enjoy a picnic with a stunning valley view.
Waimea is a must-visit for wine enthusiasts, offering local vineyards and tastings, along with a variety of upscale restaurants. While wine isn’t really our thing (we’re more into beer) and the van life didn’t call for fancy stops, we still took a moment to enjoy a quick meal here.
A drive with a view
Halfway down the road from Hawi, the landscape opens to a glorious view of the West Coast, then slowly appearing, will be Waimea Valley and its green hills. There are a few vista points on the way that allows for a break and some even have hikes starting from that point.
If you enjoy the countryside vibe of that part of the island, you can take the time to visit a few of the local ranches, some are as old as the first settlements in the area.
You will not go short of food options in Waimea, we wanted something quick and easy, so we went for Ramen. Hawaii is famous for its authentic asian cuisine, so we wanted to test it. Daiki approved!
Honokaa
The next stop brings you to the western coastline and the quaint town of Honokaa. This charming spot, with its single main street, offers everything from local gift shops to cozy coffee spots and eateries.
Another highlight of Honokaa is its proximity to the famous Waipi’o Valley. Although the valley is currently closed to the public, you can still enjoy an awe-inspiring view from the overlook.
If you’re patient and adventurous, you might catch a local with a 4×4 heading down. We learned about this tip too late ourselves, but it’s worth a try!
This is the one regret we have… not thinking of a way to go down there. 😫 We will for sure the next time we get to the island, from down there, the back view while surfing must just be epic.
We visited a few gifts and souvenir shops, a lot of them very unique with quirky collections, as well as some handmade goods by local artists and some fresh produces.
Honomu
After about an hour’s drive down the east coast, you’ll approach Hilo again. Along the way, you’ll pass a tiny borough that’s worth a quick stop. This charming spot holds a few hidden gems tucked behind its hills, offering a scenic break on your journey.
This state park is the home of one of the most incredible waterfall of the archipelago, with its 422-foot plunge straight down into a deep, steam-eroded gorge. The trail around it is an attraction in itself as you walk into this local rain forest. There are some benches for picnic too, where we enjoyed a well deserved tea.
Honomu is another spot for local farming, you can find high quality dairy products and see the animals being genuinely happy and taken care off. In some cases, they invite you to pat the cows and goats, so glad to receive pats and cuddles.
Honoli’i
As you reach Hilo, Honoli’i Beach will be your first stop, a well-known surf spot on the Big Island.
We spent countless hours here with the van parked nearby, just steps away from the beach. It’s not your ideal sunbathing destination—small sandy patches and lots and lots of rocks, especially in the shallows—but it’s a heaven for surfers.
The waves are pretty consistent year-round, averaging 3-4 feet, sometimes larger. Thanks to the river mouth and the surrounding points, the beach offers multiple breaks inside and out, making it pleasurable even on crowded days.
Kea‘Au Beach
The ultimate hidden gem—truly hidden, and only accessible if you’re up for the challenge of a one-hour hike through the rainforest.
Before getting too excited, this is not a surf spot (we hoped for it too, which is why we kept trekking). However, we discovered one of the most beautiful cove beaches, secluded enough to give that rare sense of paradise.
To find it, begin in the Hawaiian Paradise Park neighborhood near Keaau. It’s a lovely area with unique houses, but if you venture to the west edge, you’ll locate the trail.
The trail, is more of an off-road experience really. And do not expect bathroom, or cell service btw. But even though long and harsh, it is also fully immersive, and it makes you feel like an adventurer. The trail is going along the coast, so you can also cross some lushy grounds, and walk your way by the rocks and cliffs, which we did for half the track.
The cove is small, and makes it rather intimate. There are numerous tide pools, and it would be a great spot for snorkeling too. At the right time of the year, sea turtles visit the beach as well. It gives you that Castaway feeling, that I personally love.
Pâhoa
This hippie town marks the entrance to Puna, the island’s most tropical area—hot, humid, and frequently touched by warm, short bursts of rain.
There isn’t much beyond a central street, but a handful of unique shops and cozy coffee spots make it a great excuse for a quick stop.
Kamokuna (active lava fields)
Ok, now we’re getting serious. This part of the trip is 100% optional and only for the truly adventurous—those, like me, who are totally fascinated by volcanoes. This isn’t a simple field trip; it’s tough, potentially risky, and definitely not for everyone.
So, if you’re actually interested in witnessing real lava—scorching, fresh-from-the-earth lava—you can… but heads up, it’s a trek. Because this is active magma, it’s unpredictable. The State of Hawaii doesn’t recommend it, so there’s no road, no guide, no security crew—just you, the land, and this ancient, unstoppable force.
That said, it was the most unforgettable experience of my life. There’s nothing quite like seeing Earth as it was born, like touching a moment in time that goes beyond us all. My one mistake? I forgot to bring water! (Total rookie move!) Let’s say it may have added to the elation. 😂
Now, practicalities: wear sturdy hiking shoes, bring plenty of water, a hat, and some sort of flashlight. The area is wild, and some prefer to go at night to see the glow of the lava. But be warned: darkness, cliffs, and volcanic terrain can make it a bit nerve-wracking.
To start, take the 130 down to Puna from Pahoa. When you reach the coast, take a right onto Kaimu-Chain of Craters Road. Keep driving until you reach a makeshift parking area. From there, it’s up to you. Some people rent bikes to shorten the 30-minute trek down a gravel road. As you go, you’ll spot some vernacular, hand-built homes—a hippie community living right on the lava fields.
The “road” eventually ends, leaving nothing but miles of black, dried lava. I was lucky enough to meet a ranger and asked him which way to go. His response? He pointed inland, “Walk, you’ll find lava. Watch your step.” 😬
Armed with a stick to test the ground’s stability, I started walking. After a couple of hours under the sun, the ground began to warm, heat radiating up. Then cracks appeared, and steam, with glimmers of red beneath. And then, finally, lava started to ooze up, flowing randomly around me.
Puna
We’ll wrap up our tour in Hawai’i’s remote region of Puna. Stretching along the island’s southeastern coast, this area feels like the wildest part of the state. I’m not just talking about rugged shorelines where waves crash harder than anywhere else or the striking black sand beaches often covered in lava. The deeply humid, tropical climate and off-grid communities here add to the wild vibe.
Puna attracts those seeking alternative lifestyles, new-age experiences, or simply an ideal yoga retreat. Here are a few of our favorite spots:
Located at Pohoiki beach, and alongside the beloved surf spot, the hot springs have almost disappeared after the 2018 eruption, if you walk a bit along the cliffs, you’ll still find and handful of pods with natural sulfur infused onsen water. Definitely one of our favorite spots, enjoy and please keep the place clean!
Settled along the Puna coastline on Kapoho-Kalapana Road, this tiny church is standing since 1823, and believe it or not, has survived the 2018 lava flow. This location is filled with history with one local family figuring prominently for more than five generations.
Like I said, if you are looking for a stay or a day, rejuvenating yourself with fresh food, yoga sessions and meditation, this is a great spot to try.
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