If you’ve ever thought about visiting Japan, you’re not alone. With its unique culture and charm, the country has seen a steady rise in visitors year after year. While popular destinations like Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka dominate most itineraries, they often overshadow the untouched beauty of other regions.

Spring, with its famous cherry blossoms, is undeniably the most popular season to visit. But if you’re curious to explore a quieter, more off-the-beaten-path side of Japan, consider venturing there in winter. Follow along to uncover a hidden Winter Wonderland that’s serene, authentic, and refreshingly free of crowds.

Why Hokkaido?

Hokkaido in December is a hidden gem for travelers seeking tranquility and charm. As the snow blankets the landscape, the island transforms into a serene winter wonderland, perfect for skiing and enjoying the beauty of nature without the bustling crowds of peak season. December offers a sweet spot—early enough to experience the magic of snow-covered towns and pristine slopes, yet before the major tourist waves arrive. It’s an ideal time to discover Hokkaido’s unique culture, indulge in its renowned hot springs and cuisine, and savor the peace and quiet of this breathtaking island..

Why NOT Hokkaido

Traveling to Hokkaido in winter isn’t without its challenges. The snow, while breathtaking, can make navigating the island tricky. Roads may close unexpectedly, and travel disruptions are not uncommon. The cold is biting, requiring layers upon layers of heavy packing just to stay warm. But these very hurdles are what make Hokkaido in winter so unique. The island’s quiet charm shines in the absence of crowds, offering a rare chance to experience its beauty in near solitude. The stillness of snow-covered landscapes and peaceful towns becomes a trade-off well worth making for those seeking tranquility.

Where to Stay, Where to Start

During our trip to Sapporo, we had the unique experience of staying at Daiki’s family home on the outskirts of the city. It was incredibly charming and offered a glimpse into everyday life in a quiet, neighborly area. The traditional home was cozy, and the slower pace of the neighborhood was refreshing. However, the location wasn’t the most convenient for exploring Sapporo, as it required extra time and planning to get to the city’s main attractions.

If you’re visiting Sapporo, I’d recommend staying in the city center for ease of access to all the activities and sights. Sapporo is a medium-sized city, and staying near Sapporo Station or Odori Station puts you in the heart of the action. Both areas are well-connected and surrounded by shops, restaurants, and entertainment options. Whether you’re looking for a luxury hotel, a mid-range stay, or a budget-friendly option, you’ll find a variety of accommodations to suit your style and budget. Being centrally located ensures you can make the most of your time exploring this vibrant city.

DAY 1

Sapporo Center

Sapporo, the capital of Hokkaido, is a city that beautifully blends urban convenience with natural beauty. Known for its lively food scene, famous beer, and winter sports, it’s a destination that offers something for everyone. The city comes alive in winter with the iconic Sapporo Snow Festival, where intricate ice sculptures line the streets. During warmer months, parks like Odori and Maruyama provide lush greenery and serene escapes. Sapporo is also a culinary haven, famous for its miso ramen, fresh seafood, and dairy products. Whether you’re exploring the historic red-brick Former Hokkaido Government Office, soaking in an onsen, or shopping in the bustling underground malls, Sapporo combines modernity and tradition in a way that’s distinctly Hokkaido.

Sapporo Station is the best place to start. It’s super centered, and can easily be spotted by the highest tower around JR Tower. Here above you can see the Cityscape View from the top floor, which offers an amazing 360 look on the city. There is a cafe up there if you want to have a drink and a snack, we decided to go up there end of day and catch the sunset hour.

Then, above right, you can see Ôdori Park, it’s walkable stretch passing through the city center. You can start your walk through the “Park” (that doesn’t have much trees) at Sapporo Station, and make your way down to Ôdori TV Tower. There is always something going on, for us it was the Winter Illumination Installations, and as you walk down you’ll find a wide number of businesses, shops and cafes to stop by on your way. Now here are some of our favorite spots around:

Sato Suisan

Sato Suisan is a renowned fish market and dining experience located in the heart of Sapporo, near Odori Station. Known for its commitment to the freshest seafood, Sato Suisan offers an impressive selection of Hokkaido’s finest catches, from sashimi-grade fish to local specialties like crab and uni (sea urchin). Visitors can enjoy an authentic dining experience with meals crafted from premium ingredients sourced directly from Hokkaido’s waters. Whether you’re grabbing a quick bite or shopping for top-quality seafood, Sato Suisan is a must-visit spot for food lovers exploring Sapporo.

The German Christmas Market

The Sapporo German Christmas Market, held annually in Odori Park, brings the festive charm of Germany to the heart of Hokkaido. This delightful event celebrates the sister-city relationship between Sapporo and Munich, featuring traditional German stalls offering mulled wine, sausages, handmade crafts, and holiday decorations. The cozy, illuminated setting amidst snow-covered surroundings creates a magical winter atmosphere. Perfect for families, couples, or solo travelers, the market is a must-visit to soak in holiday cheer while experiencing a blend of European and Japanese winter traditions.

Going Around

The Sapporo subway system is a convenient and efficient way to navigate the city, especially during the snowy winter months. With three color-coded lines—Namboku (green), Tozai (orange), and Toho (blue)—it connects major areas like Sapporo Station, Odori Park, and Susukino, making it easy to access shopping, dining, and attractions. The stations are well-maintained, with clear signage in multiple languages, and many are connected to underground walkways, providing a warm, weatherproof way to explore the city.

DAY 2

Mount Moiwa

Mount Moiwa is a must-visit destination in Sapporo, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the city and its surrounding landscapes. Easily accessible via a scenic ropeway and cable car ride, the summit is particularly magical at night when Sapporo’s city lights create a sparkling display against the dark sky. The observation deck and restaurant at the top provide the perfect setting to soak in the views, whether you’re enjoying a romantic evening or a peaceful escape from the city. Mount Moiwa beautifully showcases Sapporo’s natural charm and urban vibrancy all in one.

Tramway Line

Next, we dedicated a day to visit Mount Moiwa, in the South outskirt of Sapporo. It is the closest getaway spot that is still reachable by local city public transportation. The best way to reach that amazing view point is with the Tramway loop line that your can catch at ôdori up to Ropeway Iriguchi Station.

Breakfast at Café Blue

We arrived in this part of town quite early in the morning, probably still jet-lagged and ready to go at 7AM lol. Unfortunately for us, the first trolley to up the mountain is at 11AM, so here we are with not much to do and an empty stomach. A bad for a good, we started walking around and got lucky enough to discover the charming Café Blue and their dreamy fluffy pancakes and delicious teas and coffee options.

Afternoon at Hokkaido Shrine

Hokkaido Shrine, nestled in the serene Maruyama Park in Sapporo, is a place of profound cultural and spiritual significance. Dedicated to four Shinto deities, including Emperor Meiji, the shrine is a peaceful retreat surrounded by lush forests. It’s especially enchanting during spring when cherry blossoms bloom, creating a picturesque landscape. Visitors can explore its beautiful grounds, partake in traditional rituals, and experience a sense of tranquility. Whether you’re seeking a moment of reflection or a glimpse into Japan’s rich heritage, Hokkaido Shrine is a must-see destination in Sapporo.

Rokkatei Jingu Mochi

Of all places, you wouldn’t expect a Shinto shrine to be the spot for a great snack. However, Hokkaido Jingu is home to a traditional tea and mochi shop where the pastries are made fresh, using the same ancestral methods they’ve followed for hundreds of years. The line was long, and normally, I wouldn’t bother—I’m not one for waiting. But with the cold weather, the idea of an indoor break and a hot tea was too tempting to resist. Let me tell you, it was absolutely worth the wait!

Soup Curry for Lunch

Yes, yes, … all we did was eat. Correct. But in our defense, walking in the cold really burn a good share of calories. So once finishing our walk around the beautiful park surrounding we looked for options for a rather late lunch. Soup Curry is a staple of Hokkaido Cuisine. It is a warm, more liquidy version of the classic Japanese Curry, often with a selection of vegetables more local and particular to Hokkaido agriculture. We went to Picante, a small shop just across the street, and we were so pleased. With a choice of several base-soups including a medicinal herbs one that I had, and then you pick your meat and veggy mix.

DAY 3

Traditional Photoshoot

On our third day, we saved the day for a photoshoot. It is traditional for couples to take professionally taken pictures when they get married. It is something you do before the wedding, and not during the festivity as we do in Europe. It’s also very much staged, almost acted, with several outfits and sets. I have a full post dedicated to the subject HERE.

DAY 4

Ôdori

On our third day we went back to the city center, we were still jet-lagged a bit so we wanted to stay in subway reach, and not plan anything that requires too much prep and commitment. We as often, started by an early lunch at:

Sakai Ramen

Daiki loves Ramen, so it didn’t take long for us to go get some noodles for lunch. This restaurant is not in the city center, but was highly recommended by Daiki’s sister to us, so we had to give it a try. we tried different broths including a delicious Miso soup that I devoured, we also ordered some fried rice and gyoza for good measure. We absolutely recommend Sakai.

Mind you, it is a typical local spot, with a ticket machine to order, and not much space to sit, but then again, you don’t have much more authentic than this when it comes to Ramen.

Sapporo Beer Factory

Sapporo Beer, one of Japan’s oldest and most iconic beer brands, has its roots in Hokkaido’s capital. At the Sapporo Beer Museum and Factory, you can explore the rich history of Japanese brewing and learn about the craftsmanship behind their signature lagers. The highlight? Sampling freshly brewed beer at the tasting hall, paired with delicious local cuisine like Hokkaido’s famous Genghis Khan lamb barbecue. It’s a must-visit for beer enthusiasts and a great way to soak in Sapporo’s brewing heritage.

Factory

The Factory Mall in Sapporo is a unique shopping and entertainment complex housed in the converted historic brewery. With its charming red-brick architecture, the mall offers a mix of retail stores, from local boutiques to international brands, alongside cozy cafes and diverse dining options. A highlight is the indoor atrium, featuring a glass ceiling and seasonal decorations, making it a perfect spot to relax during snowy winter days. Whether you’re shopping, catching a movie, or simply strolling through, the Factory Mall combines history and modern convenience in one inviting space.

DAY 5

Higashi-Ku

On day 4, we decided to stay around Daiki’s neighborhood. It was the first day of heavy snow, so we decided to do it locally. We started the day by going for a good walk in the small residential streets suddenly covered by snow. Japanese architecture is known to be remarkable, from ancient temples to medieval castles, but every single street of wooden houses and small apartment building can be a cause for amazement. Hokkaido, because of its extreme weather, offers an absolutely unique version of this architecture, with lego-like cubic houses looking like pastel building blocks.

Udon for lunch

The noodle saga continues with our second favorite, Udon. Daiki’s parent took us to this popular shop in their neighborhood. The line was long, but went on super quick. You can see the open kitchen, super busy with cooks chanting welcoming irrashaimase facing a row of the freshly made dough rising up in the see-through fridges. You see that, you already know it’s gonna be good. they also have a wide variety of freshly fried Tempura and other toppings to add to your bowl. We were in and out in less than 20 minutes. It was very good.

Community Centers

You probably won’t find this suggestion in any guide books out there planning your trip to Japan, but no matter where or when you visit the country, I advise you to stop by a local community center. Every single hubs have one, and usually they offer informations about what to do in the neighborhood, have a library with book to read and learn from, and cultural activities, often free, to join to discover a little more of the local culture. Years ago, I learned tea ceremony with 3 charming old ladies in that exact same spot. This time we only did a little bit of reading and wandering.

Shopping at Coop

Another thing you might not think about, is to visit supermarkets. Well of course there is the kombini, and its never ending source of snacks, I dedicated a post about it. Then there you have these fancy gourmet markets under any main train stations, that you probably will encounter one way or another. But I am talking about Coop, the best supermarket of Japan. The Trader Joe’s of Japan. Daiki felt super nostalgic and of course this is always a moment of “should we move to Japan for good?” instance. And I get it, they had a full shelf dedicated to my ultimate favorite Japanese food Tarako, the Cod Roe that is so slaty and fatty, it’s like eating prosciutto paste.

DAY 6

Mountain Bound

Finally it was time to leave town and experience some well deserved onsen time in the mountains. Heading South, there are a lot of destinations from Sapporo that offer Skiing and Onsen. The Drive is about 2 to 3 hours depending on traffic, but in Winter, a lot of roads are closed and accidents are pretty common and gnarly. So we opted for the train, which is viable option even in Summer if you don’t want to rent a car. Plus nothing feels more like a vacation than eating homemade onigiri in a fast moving train.

Noboribetsu

Noboribetsu, nestled in Hokkaido, is famed for its dramatic natural landscapes and hot springs. Known as the “Hell Valley” (Jigokudani), the town boasts steaming sulfur vents and bubbling pools, making it a geothermal wonderland. Visitors flock here to experience its rejuvenating onsen, believed to have healing properties. Beyond the springs, Noboribetsu offers serene hiking trails, and a glimpse into traditional Japanese culture. It’s a charming escape that blends relaxation and adventure, perfect for immersing yourself in Hokkaido’s natural beauty.

The first thing we did arriving in town was eating a quick lunch, while Daiki’s parents opted for soba, we went for ramen (yes again) but these above were Shrimp Miso base, it was my first time having it and it was divine.

Jigokudani Valley

Also known as Hell’s Valley, this stunning geothermal landscape showcases nature’s raw power. This dramatic valley is filled with steaming vents, bubbling hot pools, and vibrant mineral deposits, creating an otherworldly scene. The area is the main source of Noboribetsu’s famed onsen waters, drawing visitors seeking relaxation and healing.

Takimotokan Ryokan

There a good number of hotels and ryokans settled in the nook valley of Noboribetsu, most of them have their own onsen, but some are more shaby than others. Daiki’s parents decided for us to stay at the Takimotokan, with the biggest onsen around and the closest to the mountain views as well. It was amazing. The rooms were ryokan style, with tatami and futon, green tea sets to be brewed, everyone walking around in yukata and a few restaurant options including an amazing buffet where Daiki and I made ourselves sick from eating so much of everything. 😛 100% recommend!

DAY 7

Hiking

There are a lot of trails to be walked through in Noboribetsu. On day 6, post food coma from the previous evening’s feast, Daiki and I took it easy and lazily in the morning and decided to go for a small hike, which started covered in many many layers to beat the cold, and ended up half naked because the hike was actually a lot more sporty than we thought. But you are always rewarded by the views.

Mongolian BBQ

We then went for a good lunch at Nobojin a local Mongolian BBQ, specializing in lamb meat, which is another specialty from Hokkaido. It was great, and a perfect comfort food to cook yourself over the grill warming you up slowly. Then we went back to the hotel for a little rest, and made a quick tea in the room.

The Bear Sanctuary

First, I need to say that I hate the zoo. I do not visit such places where animals are held in cages for our pleasure only. This place is a sanctuary, a place where they rescue and rehabilitate bears that cannot live in the wild as of now, they have a lot of space to room around, and are not trained to perform or anything like that. We are allowed to give them snacks though, which they seem to love, so do the local crows.

Again, you must take a trolley up a higher pan of the mountain, and get to a rather remote area where the bears live. You’re not super close to them, but they have ingenious piping system to deliver the treats to them, which they seem to enjoy a lot. There is also a little museum to visit that gives information on the presence of bears in the world and in Japan.

DAY 8

Wild Foot Onsen

On our last day in the Mountain, we enjoyed the onsen a last time, had great last breakfast buffet, which always takes a good amount of time as I want to try everything. We decided to go and find that mysterious Wild Onsen that the map we received on the first day marked as a milestone on a hike. After 20 minutes walk we found a small trail going deeper into the landscape and there it was, and we were all alone! That was amazing.

Then we took our little bus and little train home, and rested home quietly.

DAY 9

Upopoy

The Upopoy National Ainu Museum and Park in Hokkaido is a cultural treasure that shines a spotlight on the rich heritage of the Ainu, the indigenous people of Japan. Situated by the picturesque Lake Poroto, this interactive museum and open-air park offer immersive exhibits, traditional performances, and hands-on workshops that bring Ainu culture to life. Visitors can explore artifacts, learn about Ainu crafts, and experience the rhythmic music and dances passed down through generations.

I would advise to take a full day to visit, because there are a lot of fun interactive activities scheduled throughout the day and the museum itself is very big. There is an entire Ainu village rebuilt and hosting tutorials and demonstrations. There are a few restaurants and cafes on the compound so you don’t even need to worry about breakfast or lunch.

DAY 10

Otaru

Otaru, a charming coastal town in Hokkaido, is known for its historic canals, beautifully preserved architecture, and a romantic atmosphere that captivates visitors year-round. Once a bustling port town, Otaru’s scenic canal is lined with quaint warehouses now repurposed into cozy cafes, boutiques, and museums. Famous for its glasswork, music boxes, and fresh seafood, including its renowned sushi streets, Otaru offers a delightful blend of culture and cuisine. Whether exploring the nostalgic streets or enjoying the serene views of the harbor, Otaru is a picturesque escape just a short hour trip from Sapporo.

Little Barrel

We stayed only for a night in Otaru, and Daiki took care of the booking. He, of course, was looking for something budget friendly, while still making me happy with something unique and curated. Little Barrel is something is between a ryokan and an hostel. The building was an old school, and had been renovated in the most personal, and charming way, filled with antiques and thrifted goods.

My favorite part was the common space that also works as a café and the reception of the hotel. You can see visitors and a few locals enjoying the coffee, chill playlist and free wifi.

Irifune Square

We started our visit at the Irifune Square, a charming town. It’s a charming little place at the crossing of five main streets, the whole place doesn’t look like typical Japanese city, but more like a mix with European architecture and city planning. On one side, you have the Music Box Museum, which has a small exhibition and a very big store of endless version of what a music box could look like. On the other side you have the Allnight Light Tower, the Otaru Steam Clock and nooked on the second floor of a vintage looking concrete building, and typical Japanese Cafe 銀の鐘1号館 where you can enjoy an endless refill of café and café au lait, with delicious mille-crêpe.

Sakaimachi Hondori

We then proceeded on the famous Sakaimachi street, busy center of Otaru, where you can navigate in between local craft stores of the famous Kitaichi colorful glassware, fur apparel (not my thing, but it’s the North I guess), woodwork decorations and many, many restaurants and souvenir shops.

A hole in the wall

Literally… I don’t remember the name of the restaurant we picked for lunch, because in reality it was a covered alley in between 2 existing legit restaurants. We had a little bit of everything and seafood of course! In case you are curious the place is located in between Fujisushi Otaru and 北の漁場 小樽運河店 it was charming, and delicious. 10/10

More Seafood

After a good lunch we kept on walking around, and still found the stomach to enter seafood stores for free samples. We really just ate our way through this city.

Antique Shopping

We could have missed this shop entirely, as it is located on a side street, off the main Sakaimachi hondori, and from the outside, it only looks like a beautifully preserved traditional home, nothing else. Only if you pay attention to the entrance door, do you see the small sign ready Antiques that makes you stop and give it a check. the place is indeed a traditional home, still with some tatami rooms and shoji, all of them filled to the brim with treasures. A real cavern of Alibaba, and the owner is a true connoisseur and passionate. We spent a good time in there just uncovering goodies, ones after the other and asking the story behind it.

Fish Cakes

Otaru is famous for its delicious kamaboko, or Japanese fish cakes, a local specialty that showcases the town’s coastal bounty. Made from fresh fish caught in the nearby waters, these fish cakes are ground into a smooth paste, shaped, and steamed or fried to perfection. Otaru’s fish cakes come in a variety of flavors, often incorporating local ingredients like Hokkaido cheese or vegetables for a unique twist. So we had to stop by the Kamaei Factory and enjoy yet again another snack. While you are enjoying your treat you can also visit their souvenir shop to bring some home, but better even, you can witness the scenes of the factory and fish cake making, step by step through the massive windows directly giving onto the factory floor.

The Canals

Otaru’s canals are the main attraction in the city and the heart of this charming port town, offering a glimpse into its rich history as a bustling trade hub in the early 20th century. Lined with beautifully preserved stone warehouses, the canal area exudes a nostalgic ambiance, especially in the evening when gas lamps cast a soft, romantic glow over the water. During Winter, the frozen, snow-covered scenery adds a magical touch.

ソフトクリーム

Hokkaido is renowned for its exceptional dairy industry, and the creamy, indulgent Hokkaido soft cream is its most iconic treat. The island’s cool climate and lush pastures create the ideal environment for raising healthy cattle, resulting in rich, high-quality milk that’s the foundation of Hokkaido’s dairy products. You can find the delicious ice-cream at every corners of every town, but this particular shop Yamanaka Dairy in Otaru is particularly famous for it. We tried A LOT of it during our trip, and I can confirm, this one was the very top of the line!

Okinawa in Otaru

After a well deserved nap, and let’s face it, some time to digest everything we ate that day, we decided to think about dinner. 😂 Daiki spotted a restaurant open, less than 5 minutes walk from our hotel, he showed me the pictures on google, the place looked super cute, like a cozy izakaya and the food pretty good too. It was so cold that night, so when we entered and actually realized it was a Okinawan restaurant (which isn’t mention on their google) we couldn’t be more surprised and happy.

We had the most delicious nabe, and the owner not busy, played us some traditional tunes from his island on his personal shamisen. The guy was an angel, if you pass by Otaru, stop there! The Traveler’s Restaurant.

DAY 11

Kamejyū Pan

We woke up early, and decided to grab some bread from a local bakery, on our way to our next destination. We had a few hours of travel in front of us, so we wanted something to-go and satisfying. This bakery was your typical obâ-chan bread and pastery shop, with all the classic Japanese versions, of European classics. This is my happy place, and I picked quite a few options.

Bus Travel

We talked about the train system, the tramway and even the trolleys we rode, but buses are actually another very reliable system of transportation in Japan, especially in Winter when it can be hard to drive yourself. As we were heading towards the North, and a very, very remote area, we wanted to make to get there in one piece. No train runs that far up, so the road was the only way for us, with snow up to 70 cm high. The bus was very local with a few elderly people and students going back home to their small town.

Cape Ôgon

I initially wanted to go up to Cape Kamui, the furthest point in Hokkaido facing the Sea of Japan, but with the snow and Winter condition, the hiking trail where closed, and there was no bus going that far out. We considered renting a car, but if we got stranded out there, we would have been on our own… So we settled for Cape Ôgon, which honestly was as beautiful as Kamui, and still and pretty intensive hike up in the snow to get a full view on the small bay and coastline. It felt like being at the edge of the world.

Shakotan

After our hike, we decided to walk around Shakotan, a small coastal town on Hokkaido’s Shakotan Peninsula, and a hidden gem known for its rugged natural beauty and pristine turquoise waters. Famous for its dramatic cliffs and breathtaking sea views, the area is often referred to as the “Shakotan Blue” for the vivid hue of the surrounding ocean. The town is also a seafood lover’s paradise, particularly celebrated for its fresh sea urchin (uni), which is a delicacy here. We indulged yet again at one of the few restaurant open, 飲み喰い処 平八 which offered typical private rooms, and incredible lunch platter with the best seafood we had on our trip.

Frozen Beach

We love the beach, as you know, that is where we spend most of our free time back home in Los Angeles. So when I saw that there was a sand beach in Shokotan, I asked to check it out. Daiki thought I was crazy, and didn’t get my enthusiasm, after all, he learned surfing in these cold water so for him it’s just old news. But I didn’t regret the added treck, it was fabulous, the colors, snow on sand, salty water slowing down starting to freeze. What a sight.

DAY 12

Asahikawa gathering

Then we traveled to Asahikawa, a smaller city in the center of Hokkaido, this is where Daiki’s family is originally from. We went up for the day to spend time with family in order to celebrate our wedding. It wasn’t a true wedding ceremony, plus we got married in LA more than a year prior, but we wanted to get together with the family on the Japanese side, and celebrate. We wore traditional kimono again, which was very demanding on my side, it is had hard to wear as a corset.

Takasu Shrine

Our visit to Asahikawa wasn’t long, but we still took the time to visit the small shrine familiar to Daiki’s family in order to pay our respect, and in my case, to make a little prayer. There are a lot of small shrines in the city, but this one is away from the city-center, nettled on a hilltop in its own winter wonderland covered in untouched snow.

DAY 13

Shirogane Fall

Not too far away from Asahikawa, you have few nature’s masterpieces in a close range. In just an hour of bus, we reached a tiny spot in the center heights of Hokkaido. Shirahige Waterfall is a stunning natural wonder where water cascades gracefully through gaps in the rock face, creating a veil-like appearance reminiscent of “white beards,” which is how it gets its name. This unique waterfall is fed by natural underground springs, and its waters flow directly into the picturesque famous Blue Pond, adding to the area’s magical charm. The falls are easily visible from a suspended bridge that offers a perfect view for tourists, and is in walking distance from the few hotels and ryokans on site.

Shirogane fudo no taki

If you enjoy waterfalls, but don’t love the idea of tourists, this other fall is maybe a better option for you. It is down the main road 966, but there are no walkway to reach the entrance of the trail so it’s a little bit of a daring walk to go down, and this for a fair 20 minutes. Once you enter the forest, it is only a 5 minutes hike to reach the narrow Fall coming down on you right into a wild rushing river. It was great! No one was there, it was quiet and serene.

森の雫 RIN

We stayed at the 森の雫 RIN Ryokan, it was one of my favorite ryokan so far. It’s an older establishment but they renovated the building in the best and tasteful way, somewhere in between traditional Japanese meets Mid-Century Modern Mountain revival. The onsen had an indoor and outdoor space, which I love, and their restaurant was offering buffet service for both dinner and breakfast. The rooms were tatami and futon, with cotton yukata.

One thing unique about the place is that they were switching the men and women onsen areas mid-day so we can all enjoy both type of facilities.

The Blue Lake

The Blue Pond, or Aoiike is a mesmerizing natural attraction renowned for its otherworldly turquoise waters. The vivid color is a result of minerals from the nearby Shirahige Waterfall mixing with the water, reflecting sunlight in a magical way. The pond’s beauty is further enhanced by the ghostly silhouettes of submerged tree trunks, adding a surreal and tranquil ambiance. Each season offers a unique view, from vibrant greenery in summer to a frost-covered spectacle in winter.

DAY 14

Biei

On our way back to Asahikawa, where we would take a train back home, we stopped at the tiny town of Biei. It is more of a Spring or Summer destination as it is famous for its agriculture and endless flower fields. But the day was still young, and I wanted to stretch the time in between us and the big city that Sapporo is. So we stopped, and took a chance at the visiting center. We got a map and started by a stop at the city office and its high tower where we can have a peak at the entire patchwork of the town.

Antiques

The first thing we do when traveling a new town, is to look for vintage stores. Biei was no exception, but this is a tiny, tiny hub in the middle of nowhere, so there wasn’t much to hop for. 北商 流通センター appeared on the google map, but it also said it was a mess, and that it was closed most of the time, we still took our chance. Well, it was a mess, a mountain of mess, coming out of this house, like a wave of lost objects, pilling up in a balance that challenges gravity. A very old man appeared, he was the owner, and welcomed us to step in, even with boots on, and invited us to dig and hunt for something. Eventually, I saw a beautiful Tea Box in opaline, I politly asked him how much it was (in Japanese) and he asked where I was from, I said Belgium, and then he said it was a gift! It was so nice, and I was so touched by his generosity that I told Daiki to look for something to buy, we did find a traditional Drawer Box to keep notecards, or trinkets. We purchased it, and then Daiki pointed out at some vintage carry-bento-box, and the old man gave them to us for free again! So, if you love antiques, are not afraid by a mess, and would like to meet the nicest ojii-san, this is it.

きらら Café

After all this strolling around in the snow, we were dying for a hot drink. I found a pretty café on the map, with great reviews, but when we got there, it was packed, and with a 30 minutes walk, it was filled with the few tourists passing by, and understandably, the place looked cute and the coffee smell was amazing. But there was no way I was waiting in the cold for 30 minutes. We kept walking, and stubbled on a local joint, something in between store and café, where two charming ladies were selling fresh grown veggies, hand made crafts, and some home remedies like salt baths. Bingo! You can probably learn about that “cool” cafe on many other blogs, but this was the local hub, the hot coco I had was delicious, and Daiki enjoyed a rare coffee.

DAY 15

Hokkaido Historical Village

The Hokkaido Historical Village, located near Sapporo, offers a fascinating glimpse into the island’s past. This open-air museum recreates life during Hokkaido’s pioneering days, with over 50 restored buildings from the late 19th to early 20th centuries. You can explore traditional houses, schools, shops, and even a historic railway, each showcasing the unique architecture and lifestyle of the era. During winter, the village is especially enchanting, as snow blankets the structures, adding a magical touch. Dedicate a full day here because there is a lot to see and a many engaging exhibits and period costumes that makes the experience both educational and immersive.

Cafetaria Lunching

If you decide to spend the day, you can break for lunch at the location Cafetaria. Well, it’s nothing fancy, and the only have a handful of dishes to offer, but the place is oddly old school and rather authentic. Both Daiki and I had this sense of nostalgia stepping into the large yet empty space. The food was great and the price really reasonable. The mochi and bowls were made with locally sourced vegetables and the recipes inspired by the pioneer days of Hokkaido.

DAY 16

Japanese Pasta

The end of our trip was approaching, so we slowed down a bit and caught up with old friends. For lunch, we opted for one of these Japanese Pasta store… they claim to be Italian, but I would never dare to repeat that to any of my friends for Italy… Nevertheless, it is an experience I would recommend. The dishes, even though European inspired, are 100% Japanese created, with seafood and seaweeds mixed in the fusion, that result in a weird but delicious outcome. My favorite option is of course the Tarako Pasta, since I am obsessed with these fish-eggs.

Karaoke

Can we even say we travelled to Japan if we don’t go Karaoke?!? I think not. We went to a big chain called Cats Eye, they often come by slightly outside of the big city centers, even in Tokyo. the mega structure hold more than just karaoke rooms, but also Game Centers, Pachinko rooms and more. This one was no exception. We only cared to sing though, Daiki is good, I am bad, but I love it none the less. 🫣

DAY 17

Moerenuma Center

The Moerenuma Park in Sapporo is a masterpiece of landscape and architectural design, conceived by the renowned sculptor Isamu Noguchi. The park’s striking Glass Pyramid, Hidamari, is its architectural centerpiece, blending modernist aesthetics with functionality. This striking structure, with its angular design and expansive glass panels, captures and reflects light in a way that feels both modern and organic. Inside, the building is filled with natural light, creating an open and airy atmosphere that enhances the art and exhibitions housed within. Its multi-level design includes observation decks, a café, and galleries, all connected by sleek staircases and open spaces. The pyramid’s design not only pays homage to the surrounding landscape but also serves as a hub for cultural and artistic activities, making it a must-visit for architecture and design enthusiasts.

Isamu Noguchi

Isamu Noguchi, a visionary Japanese-American artist and landscape architect, is celebrated for his ability to blend art, design, and nature seamlessly. His work spans sculptures, furniture, and large-scale public spaces, all characterized by their minimalist beauty and profound connection to their surroundings. These exhibits showcase his iconic pieces and sketches, illuminating his approach to creating spaces that encourage reflection and harmony. Unfortunately, or maybe, fortunately, it was forbidden to film or take pictures while visiting the exhibit, but we had a great time learning more about the great man Noguchi was.

The Park

Spanning over 400 acres, the park transforms what was once a landfill into a vibrant destination for families and visitors of all ages. Every aspect of the park reflects Noguchi’s artistic philosophy, with geometric landscapes, sculptures, and architectural elements creating a harmonious balance between manmade design and the natural environment. Mount Moere, a manmade hill, provides panoramic views of the park and serves as a fun spot for sledding in the winter. The Sea Fountain is a favorite among children, who delight in its dramatic water displays during the summer months. Whether enjoying seasonal festivals, exploring Noguchi’s creative vision, or simply relaxing amidst beautiful surroundings, Moerenuma Park offers something for everyone. It’s a place where art and leisure seamlessly coexist, making it a cherished escape for locals and visitors alike.

Pig Café

Ai, Daiki’s sister spent the day with us, and she had a one more card up her sleeve to entertain us. Mipig café, is a is a quirky and unique place where you can spend quality time with adorable miniature pigs. Guests can enjoy a cup of coffee or tea while these friendly pigs roam freely, often curling up next to visitors or playfully engaging with them. It’s crazy because the pigs really love people, they just willingly pile up onto you, and then fall asleep. The café emphasizes animal welfare, ensuring the pigs are well cared for and comfortable, making it a mutually enjoyable experience for both visitors and the pigs. This is the type of things that you only find in Japan…

Thank you

We stayed for a total of 21 days, this blog only covers the days that counted remarkable activities, other than us spending time with our family, or traveling. Hokkaido is probably not a destination Daiki and I would consider, ever, if he wasn’t from there, as we hate the cold. But I am thankful life has made it that way, or I would never have experienced this side of Japan, quieter, slower, and somehow more relaxing than other parts of the country. Plus the onsen here are truly the best in the world, and… who can forget the delicious sofeto kuriimu