Category: SURF
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Acceptance…

I am not ready to talk about it yet, with anyone, and let alone the internet. But I have been dealing with a medical related issue for the past year. It’s been hard, for both my body and my mind. The hardest part, has been that I had to give up some of the activities…
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One year of surfing

I never thought I would surf. I was terrified of the ocean. I had never, ever, been athletic. But somehow, this is today my main activity. This is one year in, and my journey so far. Starting My husband has been surfing for 15 years. And when we got together, I realized it was much…

